Friday, January 22, 2010

Jewelry Care and Cleaning Guide: How To Care and Protect Your Jewelry

Celebrating a Special Occasion with Jewelry!

Jewelry Care means being careful, how you store and and clean it!

How to care and protect Jewelry?

If your jewelry has value to you, it is valuable enough for you to want to take care of it. Jewelry Care means being careful you do no lose it as well as being careful how you store and clean it.

When you buy jewelry, any jewelry, from the most expensive fine jewelry to inexpensive costume jewelry, you buy it because it is beautiful. The gleam of the metal and the shine or luster and fire of the gems appeal to your aesthetic sense of beauty, based on what you can afford. The better the jewelry, the longer you want to wear it, perhaps even for rest of your life, and the longer you want it to have that like new glow, although some metals and finishes attain a warm patina with wear. What you don’t want, however, is scratched or gouged settings and dull gems. Accidents can happen, but all too often the jewelry is damaged by carelessness or not taking the few moments necessary to tend to the jewelry.

In most cases, being careful is the only care jewelry needs. Some types of jewelry, nevertheless, need special care because the gems may be soft, absorbent, or fragile.

Keep in mind that the harder the gem and the higher it is on the Mohs scale of hardness, the more durable it generally is. At time, a hard gem with high or distinct cleavage is apt to be fragile and may break or cleave if it is struck at the right angle. Hardness therefore is not synonymous with toughness. A tough gem may be soft enough to be more easily scratched but it is less apt to break or shatter. These characteristics have pertinence in wearing, cleaning, and storing jewelry, and in remodeling.

Metals have similar characteristic. The purer the silver and gold, the more easily it can be damaged. Also, you must consider the combination of metal in settings with gem or gems. What may be perfectly good to clean a metal, such as sterling silver, may not be the best for the gems. You have to consider the jewelry as a whole, not as simply metal or gems.

These point are tied in with the third point: the care you take with your jewelry to protect it from loss, both when you are wearing it and when you put it away for safekeeping. All the care in cleaning and storing will not matter if you lose the jewelry. The care you should take in this sense involves the precautions you would take to make sure you do not lose something you like and enjoy. That common sense, and it is common sense whether or not the jewelry is insured, and whether or not it is valuable. The precautions you should take with any jewelry that you like and that means anything to you, in fact, are simple common sense.

- Protection of jewelry

First of all, think about what you do when wearing jewelry. Rings are good example of how common sense can prevent loss.

More Rings are probably lost through carelessness than any other type of jewelry, because they are more apt to be taken off when being worn than pins or necklaces, bracelets or even earrings. So, Precaution Number One, if you wear rings, is to wear them at all times, or be careful with them as you are with your money and credit cards.

Men and women, incidentally, tend to regard rings differently.

- Storing and cleaning jewelry

When you take jewelry off, all jewelry and not only rings, what do you do with it? First, you should have a good and safe place for it. Second, that place should keep the jewelry safe not only from loss but also from damage.

The worst place you can put it is in a jewelry box already filled with other jewelry all jumbled together, where it can become scratched or more seriously hurt. The best place you can put jewelry is in individual leather or cloth cases or bags that will protect each piece from being damaged by other pieces of jewelry. If you do not have separate boxes from the jeweler for each piece of jewelry, at least put each piece in an individual case of some kind and do not drop it casually into a jewelry box.

In most cases, a plastic bag is a good substitute for leather or cloth. Plastic, however, should never be used with pearls, opals, and ivory, which need air to retain their beauty. Plastic, nevertheless, does have an advantage for other jewelry in that you can easily see the piece of jewelry that is in the bag. This method, incidentally, is also good for costume jewelry, which can be scratched as easily, if not more so, than precious jewelry.

Cleaning is also important in retaining and restoring the beauty and luster of jewelry with and without gems. Even gold can discolor from soaps and perspiration. Silver can be especially prone to tarnish, although almost all American sterling silver jewelry is coated with rhodium, an element of platinum, to prevent tarnishing. Any other silver that is worn all the time rarely needs polishing either, since wear retards tarnish. It still may need cleaning, though.

In fact, any metal may need cleaning now and then to remove dirt, soil, or soap film, as may gems. There are, in general, four methods of cleaning jewelry. Although all are safe for cleaning precious metal and diamonds, all are not interchangeable and safe for all kinds of jewelry. These are the methods most commonly suggested and used, but be sure to read further for the exceptions and for the precautions you should take with specific metals and gems.

-Detergents Bath. Mix a mild detergent and warm water in a small bowl or cup. Immerse the jewelry, brushing the pieces with an eyebrow brush. Rinse the jewelry under warm running water, being sure to put the jewelry into a tea strainer or cheesecloth for safety’s sake. Pat dry with lintels cloth. Do not use for soft gems or foe any jewelry that is strung, such as ivory or pearls.

- Cold water soak. In a cup or bowl, combine half cold water and half household ammonia. Put the jewelry in and soak for 30 minutes. Do not leave it overnight or for a long period of time. After 30 minutes, remove the jewelry and gently clean the front and back of the setting, if necessary, with an eyebrow brush before swishing the jewelry in the solution again and draining it dry on tissue. Do not use soft gems or any jewelry that is strung, such as ivory or pearls.

- Quick dip. Commercial jewelry cleaners generally employ the quick dip method. Since cleaners vary, you should read instructions carefully and follow them to the letter. Do not use cleaners on nay jewelry not specifically mentioned unless you check with a jeweler first.

- Ultrasonic cleaners. You will find several of these small machines on the market. In general, the principle is that of using high frequency turbulence to clean jewelry soaking in a metal cup of water and detergent. Again, be sure to read and follow the directions with the utmost care and do not use the machine on any jewelry not specifically mentioned. Not all jeweler, feel these machine are safe even for diamonds. Before buying one, therefore, be sure to check with your jeweler and get his advice.

These then are the common methods in general. Specific metals, and gems, require specific care. The methods described below are safe for the specific metals and won’t harm most gems. Keep in mind, though, that some gems need special care. Whenever you have any doubt about cleaning jewelry, be sure to consult your jeweler.

1) Copper

Copper will tarnish like silver in presence of moisture and sulfur. In most cases, however, a lacquer is baked on to prevent the jewelry from tarnishing. To clean copper, use any commercial cleaner that specifies it safe for copper. Do not use ammonia, which can erode copper.

2) Gold

The lower the number of karats, the more gold will discolor due to the higher percentage of base metals in the alloy. Mild soap, water and ammonia will remove the discoloration with ease.
One theory goes that you can prevent gold from leaving black mark on the skin by spraying the gold with hair spray. All you actually doing is adding a substance that can add to the tarnish. Keeping gold clean is the best way to avoid skin discoloration. In any case do not use hair spray on any gold with gems.

Gold-filled. Remember, the character of gold filled jewelry is the same as the karat gold that makes up 1/20 of the total weight, except that the jewelry will not last as long as the same jewelry in solid karat gold. Gold-filled jewelry can be cleaned the same way as karat gold, with mild soap, and a drop of ammonia.

Rolled gold plate. Rolled gold plate may contain less gold than rolled gold, but it should be cleaned the same way as gold-filled and karat gold jewelry.

Gold electroplate. Although the layer of gold deposited by electroplating may be 7 to 100 millionths of an inch thick, good gold electroplate can wear as well as rolled gold. It should be wiped clean regularly with a damp, soft cloth, and a mild soap and water solution may be used to remove any makeup. Do not use a treated cloth to clean gold electroplate.
Gold-washed or gold-flashed. Jewelry finished in this manner contains very little gold. The surface layer, in fact, is so thin that it may be negligible and wear off after a few times of being worn. Any cleaning, and particularly any rubbing, any remove the finish entirely.

3) Silver

Any commercial silver cleaner or silver cloth will touch up and clean silver jewelry. Soap, water, and a drop of ammonia will also clean silver that is very lightly tarnished or may just need cleaning to remove makeup and perspiration.

Silver-filled. Clean silver–filled jewelry in the same way as sterling. The older the jewelry, however, the more permanent the patina will be. Such a patina cannot be removed.

Silver plate (or silver electroplate). Silver plate, unlike gold, can last for years and can be cleaned in the same way as sterling silver. It can be re-plated, if necessary, although re-plating is more common in silver tableware than in jewelry.

4) Combination metals

Metals, including precious metals, are sometimes combined with other metals and with enamel. Be very careful in cleaning the metal that you don’t clean off the inlay or enamel. The same caution holds true for vermeil, which is sterling silver with karat gold electroplate. If you must rub, rub very gently with soft cloth.

5) Gems

Some gems need special care. That care includes both cleaning and storing gems. Be particularly careful with:

Amber. Amber is the softest of all gems and will be scratched by all other gems. Be careful in wearing it and always store it by itself. It darkens gradually with age and exposures to light and should be kept in a cloth or leather bag case.

Never use a rough clothe or clothe that may have dirt, dust, or grit on it to clean amber because of its softness. Never use acid to clean amber or wear amber when working with acids since acid will decompose amber. Alcohol and other solvents do not normally affect amber, however, unless it is exposed to them for a long period of time. For this reason, be careful not to leave amber in any cleaning solution, except very briefly. Hair spray and perfume can also affect amber.

Coral. Coral is relatively tough. Be careful with twig coral in both storing and wearing, since the thinner the twigs the more easily the coral can break. Remember, coral is not a mineral and its luster may be spoiled by preparations used to clean other jewelry.

Diamonds. Diamonds should be kept apart from other gems to avoid scratching the other gems. This rule holds true for both storage and cleaning. One expert suggests boiling diamonds for 10 minutes in soap, water, and ammonia to clean them.

Ivory. Wash ivory carefully in soapy water, drying it with a damp cloth. Never soak ivory in soap and water, however, since soaking can cause it to crack or break. If you are cleaning ivory beads, do not get the string wet because the string will stay wet and can affect the beads. Do not use commercial jewelry cleaner or acid.

Ivory darken with age. It can be bleached by sunlight or peroxide. If peroxide is used, do not soak the ivory in it, and avoid wetting any string with which ivory beads are strung with the peroxide.
Keep in mind that ivory is permeable and relatively soft, factors tending to make it contract or shrink in cold and expand in heat. The combination of temperatures, along with soaking and drying out, can lead to the cracking of the ivory. Wiping it carefully with a soft, damp cloth, therefore, is probably the best method of cleaning ivory.

Jet. Jet, although tough, is soft and should never be kept with other jewelry that can scratch it. Scratching diminishes its polish and lessens its value to collectors.

Lapis Lazulli. Despite its softness, Lapis Lazulli wears well and is popular for men’s jewelry and especially men’s rings. Even though it may scratch, the scratches are not difficult for a good jeweler to polish out.

Malachite. Malachite is soft and is not tough like jet. It breaks easily and should be worn with care. It also scratches easily, losing its polish. Be careful wearing it next to your skin, which can turn malachite dark or black.

Moonstone. Moonstone’s softness means that it needs care. Moonstones should be kept by themselves and cleaned carefully with only a very soft cloth and soap and water.

Opals. All kinds of opals are fragile and require care, the most care of any other gem. The polished stones are usually thin and may crack or craze. One cause may be extremely cold weather, indirect sunlight, in hot dishwater, or when handling frozen foods. Cold weather may also cause opals to shrink, which means they can fall out of the setting. Because of their softness, they are easily scratched and may absorb dirt or grit, another reason for avoiding dishwater and being careful in cleaning them.
Opals contain water, sometimes as much as 10%. Thus, they may dry out. For this reason, some experts suggest leaving them in water, in a mixture of water and glycerin, or in mineral oil to keep them from drying out and losing their fire, whenever they are not being worn. Use only a mild soap solution and a soft cloth to clean them. Never put opals in plastic bags, commercial jewelry cleaner, or acid.

Pearls. Both Oriental and cultured pearls are genuine pearls and need a certain amount of special care. Cosmetics (including hair spray), dust, dirt, and particularly perspiration can affects pearls. They should be wiped carefully only with a soft clothe after wearing and kept in satin-lined box, never in a plastic bag. Because their softness, cars should be taken not to scratch them. Pearls need to be worn and allowed to breathe. Do not use commercial jewelry cleaner or acid to clean them.

Peridot. Peridot scratches easily and tends to lose its polish. It should be stored and worn carefully but no special cleaning is necessary.

Topaz. Topaz should be kept in dark, literally. The gems tend to fade or pale in light, and some yellow-brown topazes on display in museums have turned clear after several years. Remember, too, it cleaves easily. It does not require special cleaning methods.

Turquoise. Since turquoise is very porous, it will absorb all sorts of impurities, especially if it is exposed to dirt and grease, such as in working in the yard or in washing dishes.

Turquoise tends to change color with age. It may lighten, darken, or streak. According to an old wives’ tale, burying turquoise in dirt restore the color, but the advice does not say for how long or what amount of dirt might be absorbed. You are probably better off learning to appreciate the change in color.

Never expose turquoise to ammonia, which will spoil the surface by pitting or spotting. Jewelry cleaner and acid will also injure or destroy turquoise.

To sum up, one of best methods of cleaning jewelry is simply to use mild soap, water and a drop of ammonia, even though ammonia should not be used with certain gems. Commercial jewelry cleaners are also available at fine jewelers, and these are safe, too, for most, but not all, jewelry. Be surer to read the directions on any commercial cleaner carefully and to follow them.

When in doubt about cleaning any jewelry, ask your jeweler what he would suggest. Remember, a watchmaker is not a jeweler. For expert advice and help, you need a jeweler who knows metal and gems, because in some cases you may be better off bringing the jewelry into the jeweler’s for cleaning.
The article above can be used on your web site or newsletter.

When it is published, may I request that you include my name and resource box (the bio, contact and copyright information) that follows the article. I would also appreciate if you could send me an email of notification along with a complimentary copy of the publication.

Thursday, December 24, 2009

How to Choose and Wear The Right Jewelry

With the various trips to different jewelry stores hunting for that perfect piece of jewelry can be taxing. But it doesn’t have to be, if you know what you are looking for. Choosing which fine jewelry to wear is no different than choosing an outfit. The key is to trust your taste and stick to your personal fashion style. For example if you’re an animal lover you can choose from numerous animal jewelry available in the market, from bird jewelry, cat jewelry, to dog jewelry, dolphin jewelry and even horse jewelry.

Although once in a while, it never hurts to step out of the box and try something unconventional like body jewelry or man jewelry, just to add spice. But what's important is that the jewelry should match with the outfit you are wearing. Jewelry is the finishing touch on your total look that will emphasize your fashion.

The first step is to determine what you want them to do. Would you like it to be the center of attention or just to compliment you? Another factor to consider is the occasion you'll be wearing it to. It’s vital to make be sure that it is fitting for the event. For instance a sexy oversized choker might be perfect for a night on the town but not for the boardroom.

Unlike in clothes, there is no need to stick with just one designer even though most people have a favorite designer. In truth there’s no need to fill your jewelry box with designer pieces, there are a lot of wonderful pieces that are unsigned but will surely make a fashion statement. Try scrambling through your jewelry box, take out your antique jewelry, estate jewelry, gold jewelry, diamond jewelry as well as your fashion jewelry and body jewelry. Mixing and matching your old pieces will give it character and a little zest.

The prize of the piece should also be considered. Contrary to what most people believe, jewelries do not have to be diamond jewelry, gold jewelry or precious heirlooms like antique jewelry, estate jewelry, Hawaiian jewelry or Italian jewelry in order to be considered fine pieces. Costume Jewelry, both signed and unsigned, is an example of a fine jewelry and yet it is affordable. A lot of jewelry store sells costume jewelry at a low price and some of them go way back to 1920s. What's great about them is that you can use it, get tired of it, put it away and still get your money’s worth.

The last and perhaps the most crucial factor to be considered is the piece’s size and shape. In this case, bigger doesn’t necessarily mean its better. Going for a bigger piece when your face is small may actually detract rather than attract. It would be good to experiment and find out what looks best on you.

Choices in jewelries are endless – woman or man jewelry, Italian jewelry or Hawaiian jewelry, fashion jewelry or designer animal jewelries such as bird jewelry, cat jewelry, dog jewelry, dolphin jewelry, or horse jewelry. No matter what your tastes are, your likes and dislikes, you will be able to enhance your look and make a fashion statement little effort in choosing the perfect piece to complement your outfit.

Buying Quality Gold, Platinum, and Titanium Jewelry Online

Everything You Need to Know About Buying Quality Jewelry Online

Gold, platinum and titanium are among the most coveted precious metals in the world. Jewelry crafted out of these pure substances is often highly valued and sought out by savvy consumers the world over. Learn everything you need to know about selecting quality pieces right here!

Gold Jewelry

Gold jewelry is perhaps the most traditional form of quality jewelry worn by men and women alike in every culture and society of the world. Gold has been used to fashion attractive pieces for centuries. Many historians believe that gold was used as far back as pre-historic times by man as a tool. Later gold jewelry was first discovered dating to around 3000 BC. Gold first became widely used by the Egyptians, who combined gold with other precious metals to achieve varying looks, colors and durability.

So what do you need to know about buying gold? Let's start with the basics. Most gold is assessed via its weight or karats.

14k Gold - 14k gold jewelry is made up of 58.5% gold mixed with copper and nickel among other things. It is the most popular karat of gold purchased the world over, and is known for its affordability and durability.

18k Gold - 18k gold jewelry is popular particularly in Europe. Most 18k gold jewelry is made from 75% pure gold. Most premium jewelry is made with 18 k, which is only slightly more expensive than 14 k gold.

22-24k Gold - 22 and 24 karat gold jewelry is usually considered the most valuable, and is very popular among elite gold shoppers. This form of gold is the most pure, consisting of almost 199% gold. Generally 22 and 24 karat gold products have a richer color than other gold jewelry.

Is one better than the other? The more pure the gold, the softer the jewelry will be and the more likely to scratch. Fine scratches are easily minimized however with proper care and cleaning over time. Quality is more related to craftsmanship than the actual percentage of gold in a particular piece of jewelry. When deciding on a piece that's right for you - you'll want to look for things like symmetry, overall appearance and finishing.

One of the best things about gold jewelry is it is available in both yellow and white. White gold is becoming increasingly popular though it is only available in 14 or 18 k styles. White gold jewelry is often plated with a platinum metal to help give its unique color.

Black Hills Gold

Black Hills gold is extremely popular among gold enthusiasts. Black Hills Gold is named not only after the style but also location the gold jewelry is fashioned in. Legend has it that a French goldsmith became lost during the gold rush of the mid 1870s in the Black Hills of South Dakota. During a dream, he believed he had seen a mountain stream with grape vines; upon awakening, he walked over to find the very scene he dreamed about, and in gratitude decided to devote his life to creating gold jewelry in the shape of grape leaves and clusters fashioned out of gold.

Black Hills Gold jewelry is a particular style of jewelry that must be manufactured in the Black Hills of South Dakota. This gold jewelry is often combined with silver and copper to create green and rose leaved color combinations. Most Black Hills Gold is available in 10, 12 and 14k versions. This makes Black Hills gold extremely popular among jewelry fans looking for attractive yet very affordable gold jewelry.

Platinum & Titanium Jewelry

Platinum and titanium jewelry are among the most expensive jewelry items, in part because they are crafted of white metals. Platinum jewelry is often very heavy and dense as is most titanium jewelry. Platinum jewelry is much heavier than gold jewelry because of the density of the metal used to craft it. Titanium is actually really light. It's only 60% heavier than aluminum and 45% lighter than steel! Platinum jewelry and titanium jewelry are also naturally white or silver, thus do not have to be combined with other metals to achieve a brilliant whitish sheen.

Most platinum jewelry is 90% pure or more, thus platinum jewelry is an exceptional selection for consumers who are allergic or who have sensitive skin. Gold jewelry might cause allergic reactions in people in part because it is mixed with other substances such as nickel, which can be irritating for some people.

Platinum and titanium jewelry usually will hold up well over time and require little maintenance, other than regular cleanings using a mild soap or cleaning agent. Titanium jewelry is in fact considered one of the most durable jewelry selections available, showing few if any signs of wear and tear over the years.

Both platinum and titanium jewelry can be fashioned with gold or silver inlays or adorned with stones. Platinum jewelry is often a popular choice for wedding and engagement bands. Titanium jewelry is slowly becoming more popular as its appeal and durability is more widely known. You can find platinum jewelry and titanium jewelry that is affordable. Most unadorned bands generally can range anywhere from $60 on up. Remember that in general, intricate and ornate platinum or titanium pieces are more expensive than their gold counterparts, and it isn't uncommon to see pieces that cost up to several thousand dollars.

You can find virtually any type of jewelry in platinum and titanium that you can in gold. Most people select one or the other based on style or budgetary considerations. Gold can actually be combined with platinum or titanium to produce unique custom pieces. The most popular platinum and titanium pieces remain rings for the most part; gold jewelry is still the reigning king and favorite it seems among jewelry wearers looking for a combination of rings, earrings, bracelets and necklaces. That may change with time however, as more and more consumers realize the appeal and durability of other precious metals including platinum and titanium.
About The Author:

Successful freelance writer, Antigone Arthur has completed a number of informative articles providing valuable insight for consumers on such topics as Black Hills Gold jewelry, platinum engagement rings, and titanium wedding rings.

What Makes Handmade Jewelry Handmade?

jewelry since long before the age of reason. Garlands of flowers, bracelets of woven grass, shells, and stone; such were the first decorations to beautify the human body. We may have been wearing jewelry as far back as 75,000 years ago -- 30,000 years earlier than previously believed -- according to a recent report by National Geographic News. 

Over the millennia, jewelry styles and materials have evolved in step with the advances of civilization. From the Stone Age to the Bronze Age, from the Iron Age to the Industrial Revolution (and seemingly back again!), styles have transformed, modernized, and then often returned to their most basic forms and essential elements. 

Today, jewelry is primarily machine made, allowing manufacturers to produce uniform jewelry designs much more economically than traditional handcrafting and hand-casting techniques allow. Casting machines now quickly process into uniform molds such components as metals, plastics, and resins, allowing even complex jewelry designs to be produced with speed and uniformity. Mechanical punch presses and forges, likewise, are also commonly employed in the jewelry manufacturing industry today, to help ensure the production of a consistent, highly profitable product. 

In the past decade, however, the modern marketplace has experienced a resurgence of interest in handmade jewelry, and a greater value is again being placed on unique and limited edition jewelry designs, made by hand with ancient crafting processes. 

With this renewed demand, jewelry artisans the world over are enjoying improved sales and recognition for their talents and skills. Many specialty galleries -- and even major department stores -- now feature an increasing array of handmade jewelry. With the advent and spread of the Internet as a sales tool worldwide, many international jewelry artisans, even located in remote regions, are also enjoying the benefits of direct sales to distant customers. 

Novica hosts the largest handmade jewelry marketplace on the Internet, featuring some 15,000 unique designs, direct from master artisans in Africa, Asia, and Latin America. Regina Bimadona, director of Novica's regional office in Bali, herself a jewelry artist, works closely with master jewelers in Bali and Java, helping them bring their collections, and the unique stories behind those collections, to appreciative customers worldwide. Bimadona specializes in assisting jewelers who still create limited-edition collections with traditional, handmade techniques. 

In the following interview, Bimadona outlines the basic differences between handmade and mass-produced jewelry, and the benefits of and drawbacks to both handmade and machine-made techniques. 

CG: What makes handmade jewelry truly handmade? 

RB: Handmade jewelry is crafted by hands, instead of mechanically made with machines. Handmade jewelers use old metal-smith skills, simple tools, and a broad variety of techniques to create their desired forms and shapes. In handmade jewelry you can often observe each item's uniqueness, its dissimilarity from similar pieces. You can also usually sense the cultural individuality, meaning, and even history behind many such designs, even if such information is not provided along with the jewelry. Handmade jewelry techniques require considerable concentration, time, skill, creativity, and dedication. This is often clearly recognizable in the finished piece, making fine handmade jewelry stand out from mass-manufactured, uniform items. 

CG: Are there other ways buyers can tell the difference between truly handmade jewelry, and mass-produced jewelry that might at first glance appear handmade? For example, some of the jewelry that we find in large department stores today may appear "rustic," but that does not necessarily mean it is actually made by hand. 

RB: You will find that true handmade jewelry is typically not identical to other pieces of the same design. It is often easiest to examine jewelry that has considerable decoration -- many aspects. Examine each individual component; you can often clearly see how they are attached and constructed. Mass-produced or machine-made jewelry typically looks more rigid and uniform. Some handmade, traditional-style jewelry appears less perfect than machine-made jewelry, although high quality handmade jewelry should nonetheless be made to last, and this should be apparent in the details. Perhaps surprisingly, I have found that machine-made jewelry often breaks more easily than well-made handmade jewelry. Much of the mass-produced jewelry sold today as "handmade" may indeed be handmade, for example in department stores, but that does not necessarily mean it is of the highest quality. Mass-production facilities typically require artisans to meet efficiency quotas that result in poorly made jewelry, made with cheaper materials -- even if it is technically made by hand. I recommend looking for handmade jewelry that is not mass-produced -- not available in large quantities. High quality handmade jewelry often has an artisan's name and reputation proudly attached to the finished product. Fortunately, quality and uniqueness are typically apparent to the careful observer. 

CG: What are the benefits of purchasing handmade jewelry, rather than mass-produced jewelry? 

RB: Handmade jewelry offers the pleasure of unique, often rare designs, that are not-identical, typically made by a true artist -- with great love and passion. Jewelry is an art form. I truly believe this strength of feeling comes across in the design process, and in the finished jewelry itself. Mass-produced items simply have less soul. I believe that handmade jewelry also better reflects the wearer's personal touch and style, expressing individuality and interest. To wear mass-produced jewelry, of a common style, to my mind lends the wearer the appearance of being somewhat mass-produced. Mass-produced jewelry can indeed be less expensive to purchase, because it is certainly less expensive to make, but it is not necessarily less expensive to purchase. Regardless, mass-produced jewelry usually brings with it no special meaning or history -- no story, no life. When you wear beautiful handmade jewelry, it is a pleasure to be able to explain to admirers the actual story or history behind what you are wearing, or information about the artist, which is often possible with handmade jewelry bought from individual artisans or their representative galleries. Above all, it is simply a joy to wear jewelry that someone has personally and lovingly created by hand. 

CG: Who are some of your favorite handmade jewelry artisans, in your region of the world, and why? 

RB: Wayan Sarjana is one of my favorite jewelry artisans in Bali. He has a wonderful personality, in addition to his high quality handmade jewelry. His designs are lovely, his prices are affordable, and his creativity is endless. Locally, Mariella, Priyo Salim, Agung Pribadi, Janice Ripley, and Zayd are a few other personal favorites. Fortunately, they have all agreed to participate on the Novica Web site, along with many of our other finest artisans here, so I have the honor to assist and represent them now. Each of their biographies, and collections, are included in the Novica Handmade Jewelry department, where you will find detailed explanations as to why I admire and recommend these jewelers so highly, as well as other favorite jewelers and artisans. 

CG: What inspired you, personally, to learn to make jewelry by hand? When did you begin? What style do you prefer, and what materials? 

RB: My background is in art and design. It has always fascinated me to work with my hands -- to let my soul, my mind, and my body link together in the process of making something new and exciting. I enjoy having private conversations with the materials I work with -- to play with these materials within my imaginary space, and to see the evolution and transformation of various components into a new form of existence. It is exciting. Many new ideas and silent conversations begin flowing during the making of any sort of art, including jewelry. I began creating jewelry in 1988, while studying at the Indonesia Art Institute. Then, I often visited a friend's jewelry studio nearby, and that is where I began to learn this art form. A few years later, when one of our big Indonesian magazines held jewelry design competitions, I entered, and twice was a finalist in their competitions, in 1990 and 1991. I enjoy creating both contemporary and traditional styles. I enjoy working with many materials, including sterling silver, gold, copper, wood, leather, bone, amber, and especially natural gemstones and pearls. 

CG: Do you still have time to make handmade jewelry these days, or are you too busy with your managerial work? 

RB: I wish I had more time to make handmade jewelry today! I am so busy with Novica. Fortunately my Novica work revolves around what I love most. I spend my days meeting with our region's most exciting master artisans and jewelers. Also, because of my personal expertise with art, including handmade jewelry, I can frequently offer helpful business suggestions to the artisans with whom I work, which brings me great personal satisfaction. I do also continue to make a few jewelry designs of my own, and I continue collecting materials, especially gemstones and pearls, for some new jewelry collections I have in mind. Jewelry is such a passionate aspect of life. I enjoy every minute of my work, whether working as a designer myself, or helping others who are dedicated to this beautiful and artistic way of life. 
Catherine Gallegos serves as editor-in-chief of Novica (part of the National Geographic family), a retail site featuring the handmade creations of artisans worldwide, including handmade jewelry.

Tuesday, May 26, 2009

The Secret Of Silver Jewelry

When we talk about precious metals we usually mean gold, platinum and another pure metal, fine silver. Silver is one of the original materials of value mentioned in the Bible, together with other originals such as precious gemstones that existed from the beginning of time.

This explains part of the attraction associated with these 'non-virtual' commodities - they existed for a very long time in human history, and presumably even before. Used throughout all generations and nations they have been and are one of the preferred ways to display symbols of value and are used as objects of beauty and style in jewelry. As a form of personal expression and 'street art'.

Thinking of fashion styles we tend to look at clothing, hair styling and makeup first. However accessories are a major part of the outfit. Jewelry one of its coolest forms.

Why then is silver jewelry one of the constants that remain throughout history? What is the real mystery and the secret of silver? It's not only its cool attraction -- it is one of the commodities that existed before paper money, and it will retain it's value after currencies are gone.

In a world that goes more virtual by the minute we keep a few valuables that have their own pre-set value outside our current reality. Currencies will go virtual, jewelry will not.

To give you an idea about the differences of investments in tangible and intangible products and how it works out in real life, let me give you an example that nearly did cost me $25.000 in the past.

During the first oil crisis I lived in New Zealand for a few years and had to invest my assets in appropriate channels at that time. Because back then not only oil prices went up, also other commodities such as gold and silver increased slightly in value and I decided to invest some money in metals.

After locating a company that advertised selling of gold bullion, I went to their downtown store and asked a clerk to purchase gold for about $25.000. I never did this kind of investment before and was a bit unsure about where to keep it save from curious people and for the possible event of burglars in the house.

Knowing what was on my mind the clerk asked me that memorable question "would you like to have this in gold options, stocks or physical bullion?" He went through great lengths to explain me the advantages of "gold papers" that follow the value of gold at any time, so increase in value if the gold price further increases. There would be no necessity to actually touch physical things, and I could cash in the papers at any time.

I almost agreed to his offer, when suddenly a small yet bright thought of warning flashed my mind. Something that a goldsmith I met before told me years earlier, he said: "If you ever buy gold, remember the reason why you buy it, and do not buy virtual gold, but the real thing only".

This thought won in the end because my adviser taught me many basic things about jewelry and metals, and I highly respected his opinion. Turned out he was right. Less than 6 months later, the company I bought the bullion from faced bankruptcy and all their options, shares and other papers lost all of their value. I still had my physical gold however, that increased in value by about 10% at that time.

With that example fresh in mind, I personally still make distinctions when I buy personal products that enhance my lifestyle today.

Yes I invest a lot in software for example that enhances my virtual PC desktop, and helps websites function the way they should, and also loose a lot of it every few years when a harddisk or server crashes. I also enjoy the latest designer clothes, however they wear out and generally get damaged by usage over time.

However I keep a small collection of silver and gold jewelry in the same fresh looking condition as I originally bought it many years ago. These items never wear out, never go out of style. And never loose their value. It's the real thing.

George Ahrens is editor at BlueOceanJewelry.com where you can find a fresh breeze in style of unique silver jewelry with a touch of smart elegance and sophistication. New designs with colorful precious gemstones that express vitality and dynamic energy. Bold statements of style, fun and timeless elegance.

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The Truth About Gold Jewelry

Without a doubt, Gold is one of the world’s most precious metals. It is also a certainty that gold enjoys an unsurpassed popularity as a medium for jewelry expression. Both jewelry artisans and consumers alike are "in love" with gold. There seems to be no end to the range of colors, finishes and styles available and gold remains a perennial favorite setting for gemstones.

Gold can last forever, will not corrode or rust and can be found anywhere. Gold exists in plants, rivers, oceans, mountains, it’s nearly everywhere but it is extremely difficult and costly to extract this amazing metal. Did you know that a single ounce of gold can be pulled into a thin wire that stretches nearly five miles long? An artisans hammer can work that same ounce into a very thin sheet that can cover a 10ft x 10ft(100sq. ft.) area. Also, it takes nearly 3 tons of gold or to extract a single ounce of pure gold. Well if you didn’t now you know!

Gold Basics

The word Gold, used by itself, means all gold or 24 karat (24K) gold. Because 24K gold is soft, it’s usually mixed with other metals to increase its hardness and durability. If a piece of jewelry is not 24 karat gold, the karat quality should accompany any claim that the item is gold.

The karat quality marking tells you what proportion of gold is mixed with the other metals. Fourteen karat (14K) jewelry contains 14 parts of gold, mixed in throughout with 10 parts of base metal. The higher the karat rating, the higher the proportion of gold in the piece of jewelry.

Most jewelry is marked with its karat quality, although marking is not required by law. Near the karat quality mark, you should see the name of the U.S. registered trademark of the company that will stand behind the mark. The trademark may be in the form of a name, symbol or initials. If you don’t see a trademark accompanying a quality mark on a piece of jewelry, look for another piece.

Solid gold refers to an item made of any karat gold, if the inside of the item is not hollow. The proportion of gold in the piece of jewelry still is determined by the karat mark.

Jewelry can be plated with gold in a variety of ways. Gold plate refers to items that are either mechanically plated, electroplated, or plated by any other means with gold to a base metal. Eventually, gold plating wears away, but how soon will depend on how often the item is worn and how thick the plating is.

Gold-filled, gold overlay and rolled gold plate are terms used to describe jewelry that has a layer of at least 10 karat gold mechanically bonded to a base metal. If the jewelry is marked with one of these terms, the term or abbreviation should follow the karat quality of the gold used (for example, 14K Gold Overlay or 12K RGP). If the layer of karat gold is less than 1/20th of the total weight of the item, any marking must state the actual percentage of karat gold, such as 1/40 14K Gold Overlay.

Gold electroplate describes jewelry that has a layer (at least .175 microns thick) of a minimum of 10 karat gold deposited on a base metal by an electrolytic process. The terms gold flashed or gold washed describe products that have an extremely thin electroplating of gold (less than .175 microns thick). This will wear away more quickly than gold plate, gold-filled or gold electroplate.

Vermeil (ver-may), a special type of gold plated product, consists of a base of sterling silver that is coated or plated with gold.

Learn How To Buy Jewelry And Gemstones Without Being Ripped Off. This informative Special Report reveals little-known facts and insider trade secrets that many jewelers would prefer you didn’t know. To get your FREE copy please go to http://www.morninglightjewelry.com

Choosing Pearl Jewelry

When choosing pearls there are a number of things to consider besides just the quality of the pearls. While there is no right or wrong way to chose pearls, here are a few tips you should consider.

Necklace Length - You can buy pearl necklaces in a number of different lengths. Generally speaking, shorter necklaces flatter long necks, while long necklaces are nice for smaller necks. The lengths and names are as follows.

Collar - 12-13"
Choker - 14-16"
Princess - 17-19"
Matinee - 20-25"
Opera - 26-36"
Rope - 37" or longer

The most popular is the Princess length since it is a good length for both long and smaller necks.

Pearl Color - The pearl color does not affect the value of the pearl, instead it is completely in the eye of the beholder. Most people buy pearls that best match their skin tone. People with light skin usually buy white or pink pearls while people with darker skin tones tend to buy black or lavender pearls. In America, white pearls are the most popular, while in Asia, silver are the most sought after.

Pearl Sets - When buying pearl jewelry you should consider if you want an entire set, or just a certain piece. If for instance, you buy the necklace, and then later decide to buy the bracelet / earrings they may not match as well as if you had bought a set. Even if you buy the same size, and color, the style may not be the same. Some stores will allow you to buy the individual pieces of a set. So if you want to buy the other pieces at a later time, they will still match.

Owner of Strictly Pearls.

Written by, James Dunn - http://www.strictlypearls.com